Time to put it all together, add the fiddly bits, and paint. This is where the kit really shows its age.
Before I could close it up, I had to add in the machine gun. As previously noted, this is an MG34, rather than the typical MG13.
fig. 5-1
When I did close it, there was some minor warping which prevented the rear left from lining up correctly with the lower hull. In addition, there was that rather large gap at the rear, and a noticeable gap at the front. The covering over the muffler is vinyl, but it cements to the kit with regular modeling glue for styrene.
fig. 5-2
Clamping wasn’t really an option. So a lot of putty later.
fig. 5-3
fig. 5-4
There were also some guides on the side of the superstructure that needed to be filled in. They were for the strengthening braces, but those aren’t present on a series 3 machine. But I didn’t remember to do this until after I’d put the antenna in. Also, there were a lot of sinkholes on the storage bin that needed filling in also.
The transmission housing on the Pz.I actually sits a little proud, not like this. Better to have it smooth than gaps on either side. You can see the gap in Img. 5-1.
fig. 5-5
If you compare images 5-1 and 5-3 with 5-5, you’ll notice I moved the antenna rack and crowbar. This is because the instructions are incorrect. On a Pz.I.B, the crowbar was on the outside, and the antenna rack was further forward.
If you look closely at 5-5, you can see the ivory interior through the cupola.
Also you can see I added track to the forward hull. I don’t think this would be accurate for a French campaign vehicle, and was probably a response to the powerful guns of the Soviet tanks, but I liked the look of it. And, hey, it could have happened. I did see a tank with track just tossed on the front hull, but not bolted down like this.
One of the things I was trying to do with this build was not do too much research. The more I do, the more I tend to decide I need aftermarket details to fix problems. So, one of the instruction mistakes I missed was that the headlight and the horn are in the wrong places, as is obvious in 5-5.
The tracks, both for the running gear and on the front glacis, are vinyl. The detail isn’t bad, but they don’t hold paint very well, even with Krylon primer, which is another reason you may as well glue your running gear in place. Little bits flake off every time I move them.
I painted it in Model Master panzer schwarzgrau and for the No. 45 dunkelbraun (later RAL 7017) brown, a mixture 5:1 of Tamiya XF-10 flat brown to XF-1 flat black. I am not a great painter, but thank goodness for weathering to hide my poor skills.
fig. 5-6
fig. 5-7
fig. 5-9
fig. 5-10
Then decals and a dot filter. The decals are very sticky, and once placed, didn’t want to move. When I was able to get them to move, they’d often fold up and stick to themselves; then tear when trying to get them apart. Two of my Balkenkreuzes, one of my ghosts, as well as my unit number suffered this fate. Fortunately, I was able to grab a unit number from another kit that was the right size.
fig. 5-11
And final weathering.
fig. 5-12
fig. 5-13
fig. 5-14
fig. 5-15
fig. 5-16
fig. 5-17
And that’s the end.
Part 1, review
Part 2, road wheels
Part 3, superstructure
Part 4, hull
Part 5, finishing up
armor fiend 